L'Ulivo and Savoia

I have a soft spot for small, casual Italian restaurants with wood-burning ovens. If you share this fondness, I heartily recommend L'Ulivo Focacceria in SoHo. L'Ulivo's complementary basket of herb-sprinkled focaccia is so inviting that you may find yourself filling up fast before the meal even begins. If you can, try to save some room for the wonderful pizzas. Tonight, after a refreshing tricolor salad drizzled with extra-virgin olive oil and Modena balsamic vinegar, I indulged in the focaccia tartufata. This incredibly satisfying pizza is layered with thinly-sliced fresh mozzarella, mushrooms and sheets of Parmesan. The thin, crisp crust is not a mere vehicle for the excellent toppings; it's so tasty that I could eat it plain. There are also many pasta options on the menu, including homemade lasagne and orecchiette in a spicy broccoli rabe puree. This evening, the charming waiter sensed my enthusiasm and brought over a free tiramisu. L'Ulivo is truly a place after my own heart!

When I visit Cobble Hill, I greatly enjoy Savoia. The host always has the confident, friendly demeanor of someone who knows that the customers are pleased. I most certainly am, especially when eating the soul-satisfying rigatoni alla Norma: a generous bowl of al dente pasta tubes and cubes of eggplant in a flavorful tomato sauce, topped with shredded salty ricotta. I also like to watch the chef at work on his "classic" and "new style" pizzas. For the traditionalist, there are four-cheese and marinara pies; for the more adventurous diner, there's a pear, walnut and Gorgonzola pizza!

L'Ulivo Focacceria: 184 Spring Street, (212) 343-1445. Savoia: 277 Smith St., Brooklyn, (718) 797-2727.

Noodle Soup

This brutal weather calls for a big bowl of piping hot noodle soup! When confronted with this particular craving, I often find myself at Ony (CLOSED AS OF 11/26/06), a West Village ramen house. At Ony you may customize your soup by adding extras such as chicken, tofu and kimchi. You can even choose your own broth (I like the spicy miso). There's also a creative sushi menu; I recommend any of the maki that contain yuzu kosho sauce, a peppery lemon mayonnaise.

Last night, I accidentally boarded a W train on the way home. Shivering on the elevated subway platform, I decided to turn my mistake into an opportunity to eat noodle soup! I simply changed to the 7 train at Queensboro Plaza, got off at Roosevelt, and headed over to Tibetan Yak. This cozy spot specializes in handrolled noodles, several preparations of which involve very satisfying soups. Tsel gutse ritu is a giant bowl of bok choy, mushrooms and rolled pasta soup, and thinthuk features flat pasta, beef and radish. And for dessert, there's the Tibetan version of noodle pudding: bhatsa markhu.

Stay warm!

Ony: 357 6th Ave., (212) 414-8429. Tibetan Yak Restaurant: 72-20 Roosevelt Ave., Queens, (718) 779-1119.

Crimes of Nutrition

According to today's Wall Street Journal, a health-food executive will be imprisoned for selling low-fat doughnuts that are too delicious. Suspicious customers have complained to the Food and Drug Administration, and sure enough, there are 18 grams of fat in each doughnut instead of the advertised 3 grams.

This news item is similar to a recent New York Times article about CremaLita, a chain that falsely claims to serve diet ice cream.

To my sugar-addled mind, the real criminal activity is the ongoing research into how desserts can be made less tasty. A fitting punishment would be a day-trip to the Doughnut Plant and Il Laboratorio Del Gelato.